Weihnachten is coming…

Even though the weather isn’t quite sure what it’s doing, the calendar confirms loud and clear that it’s nearly Christmas! Well…it’s nearly Advent, which here in Germany is when things start to get both cosy and exciting. There is so much that I love about Christmastime in Germany, including the way each Sunday in Advent is celebrated in a lovely countdown to Christmas. I will share all of my favourite traditions in a separate post. But today, I want to focus on where you can go to get into the Christmas mood, as the first Christmas markets have already opened and I am craving my first Glühwein, Feuerzangenbowle and Kartoffelpuffer mit Apfelmus.

Traditionally, the Christmas markets don’t open until after “Totensonntag” (the “Sunday of the Dead”, when all those who have passed from us are remembered), i.e. after 20 November 2022, although there are a few (such as Offenbach am Main) that open earlier for those who just can’t wait any longer! It is a matter of taste whether you prefer the larger, more “commercial” markets such as those in Frankfurt, Mainz and Wiesbaden, or whether you like the more local events in smaller towns where many more stalls are run by local clubs and associations. The list below is but a tiny selection of what is on offer. If there is a town you fancy visiting, chances are there will be a Christmas market there at some point, so do some research online to make sure you don’t miss out. And…if you can, travel by public transport so you can fully enjoy the delights of Glühwein (mulled wine), heißer Apfelwein (hot local cider), heißer Kakao mit Schuß  (hot chocolate with a shot), heißer Metwein (hot honey wine) and Feuerzangenbowle (delicious but dangerously potent mulled wine with rum and sugar added – it’s great if you see it being made, as they pour the rum over a cone of sugar and light it, so the rum and sugar drip down into the wine, which is often in a copper kettle). The children will be able to warm up with Kinderpunsch (hot fruit juice, sometimes mixed with fruit tea), heißer Apfelsaft (hot apple juice) or heiße Schokolade (hot chocolate).

On every Advent weekend, there is a lovely Christmas market in the grounds of the pretty Bad Homburg Schloss. (It’s worth combining a visit with a walk around the Schlosspark – and if you’re not local, take the time to explore the beautiful Kurpark, too.)
Also, in the town centre by the Kurhaus/Louisenstr. there will be Christmas stalls open from 17 November 2022 until 30 December 2022 (yes, even after Christmas, and the advertising says “daily” but maybe check in advance if you want to go on 24/25/26 December just to be sure!)

21 November 2022 to 22 December 2022
Frankfurt hosts one of the largest Christmas markets in the region. It is set in the beautiful old Römer square, but extends a short way along the river and up to Hauptwache and Roßmarkt, too. As well as a myriad of stalls selling food, drink, Christmas decorations, winter clothing, kitchen utensils and plenty of other more or less Christmassy things, there is a huge old-fashioned two-tiered merry-go-round (carousel) at the Römer square as well as other rides for children at Paulsplatz.
Some days there is a concert at 5.10pm on the Römer stage – see website for details.

There is also an indoor market in the Paulskirche where many artists/craftspeople present their work.

And at Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz (by Bar Celona) there is the “rosa Weihnacht” specifically – but not exclusively – for the gay community.

On 10 & 11 December 2022, you can take a ride along the river on an old steam train. I recommend booking tickets in advance! There are also river trips run by Primus Linie.

In F-Sachsenhausen, you can enjoy a Christmas market in the forest around the Goetheturm (climb to the top before you have had too much Glühwein..!)

21 November 2022 to 22 December 2022
Heidelberg is a pretty town on the banks of the Neckar river at the best of times, not least thanks to the castle up on the hill, but the Christmas market throughout the streets of the town really brings it to life. There is a (real) ice skating rink there, too.
And – a bonus for the foreigners – there is a photo opportunity with Father Christmas (Weihnachtsmann) at the Marktplatz.

From 22 November 2022 to 23 December 2022
As well as the “usual” Christmas market stalls, the market in the capital city of Hessen has an ice skating rink (with a plastic rink this year due to the energy crisis) and a big wheel for everyone to enjoy, as well as a little train children can ride on. The lily-shaped Christmas lights are particularly pretty.

24-27 November 2022
This lovely Christmas market has a medieval section at the old market square, a children’s area including a little train to ride on at Epinayplatz and an indoor arts & crafts market in the Stadthalle.
On Rathausplatz, there is a “Weihnachtsdorf” with a variety of food and drinks stalls that will also be open from 4pm every Thursday-Sunday each weekend in Advent.
In addition to the main Christmas market, each district of Oberursel has its own market, with Stierstadt celebrating on 3 December and Bommersheim and Oberstedten heating up the Glühwein on 11 December.

24 November 2022 – 23 December 2022 and 27-30 December 2022 (at Neubrunnenplatz und Schillerplatz)
The Mainz Christmas market is a large one, with the cathedral in the background and a huge “Weihnachtspyramide” Christmas pyramid in its midst. One small section even opens up again for a few days after Christmas.

26-27 November 2022
Combine a visit to this advent market at the museum’s old market square with a tour around the rest of this fascinating outdoor museum of what life used to be like.

From 30 November to 4 December 2022, the beautiful old town of Büdingen will sparkle in Christmassy beauty. As well as a “normal” Christmas market, there is also a medieval market. There will also be traditional and modern musical performances, as well as a big wheel and carousel.

On the first three weekends in Advent, the Ronneburg castle comes alive with a very popular medieval Christmas market. As well as plenty to eat and drink, there are entertainers/jesters (Gaukler) and musicians, fire shows, children’s theatre and at 5pm every day there is a nativity play. It usually gets very busy, but it is lovely. There are shuttle buses because parking at the castle is limited.

The idyllic Christmas market in Ingelheim (on the river Rhine) takes place on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th weekend in Advent and comes highly recommended by a good friend of mine. The market is set against the backdrop of the old town wall and the church on the hill, and as well as the usual food and drinks stalls, there are many stalls selling locally-made arts and crafts of all types – ideal for buying some individual Christmas presents. In addition, there is entertainment and live music every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, ranging from choirs through a big band to a magic wand-making workshop for children.

Schlitz is a small town north of Fulda that you wouldn’t necessarily stumble upon if you didn’t know it was there. But my husband’s family has been holidaying there for decades, so it has a special place in our hearts – and the surrounding countryside in the Vogelsberg is beautiful. At Christmas, the castle tower (which you can otherwise visit and get great views from the top of) is transformed into a huge red candle – you can even read about it in the Guinness Book of Records. The lovely old town hosts a Christmas market every weekend in Advent that is full of local specialities that is worth a visit and could be combined with a trip to the cathedral town of Fulda, which also has a Christmas market.

2-11 December 2022
Alsfeld is a really stunning old town in the Vogelsberg region that is celebrating its 800-year jubilee this year, but it is in no way stuck in the past. When I visited in the Spring, it felt like (unlike in some places in more rural regions) the younger generation was very much a part of the town. While I have never been to the Christmas market there, I can imagine how lovely it must be against the backdrop of the old market square. As well as the usual mix of culinary delights, there is some form of entertainment every day, including a craft hut for children, fairytales, music and the German “Frau Holle” shaking out her beds (i.e. the fairy tale lady who is responsible for the weather shakes her pillow/duvet out of the Märchenhaus window to make it snow.)

2-4 December 2022
This small Christmas market in the pretty town of Königstein runs along the main shopping street and into the Kurpark, with views of the imposing castle ruins (which are worth a visit). Older children might enjoy some time out at the skate park next to the children’s playground or the parkour park between there and the castle.

9-11 December 2022
Bad Nauheim is a particularly pretty spa town about 40 mins north of Frankfurt, and the Christkindlmarkt is set in the “Trinkkuranlage” park close to the beautiful big Kurpark.

Dolce Weihnacht, Bad Nauheim
This is a small Christmas market at the Dolce hotel that takes place every advent weekend, including live entertainment and activities for children, too.

There is a lovely Waldspielpark playground in the forest in Bad Nauheim, too, if you’re making a day of it with the family. It’s about a 20 minute walk from the town centre/Kurpark.

10-11 November 2022
The Christmas market in Kronberg stretches from Berliner Platz through the old town up to the castle (which is intact and well worth visiting, especially if you want to combine warming up with a history lesson).

 

Another great way of getting into the Christmas spirit is to attend a Christmas concert. Again, there are far too many for me to list them all (Adventskonzert or Weihnachtskonzert are terms you could use for an Internet search), but here is a sample of what I have found.

  • 26 November 2022, Bad Homburg, Candlelit concert by Ukrainian children’s choir, outdoors at the music pavilion by the Orangerie in the Kurpark
  • 27 November 2022, Kronberg, Advent concert by Musik-Verein Kronberg at St Johann church
  • 2-5 December 2022, Frankfurt,The renowned “Singing Christmas Tree” concerts by the German-American Community Choir have been delighting families since my husband was young. Book early!
  • 4 December 2022, Usingen, Advent concert with baroque trumpet ensemble
  • 16 December 2022, Bad Homburg, “If I could wrap up a kiss” jazz concert by Silje Nergaard

UPDATE: If you’re looking for a Santa’s Grotto or something similar, you may not find exactly what you are looking for, but at the Nordwestzentrum shopping mall there is a Father Christmas (Weihnachtsmann) and angel (Engel) who will be walking around from noon until 8pm on the Saturdays until Christmas, and from 3 December (from how it’s written I think they mean daily, but I’m not 100% sure) there will be a “parade” with music from 1pm until 6pm and people dressed up e.g. as Elsa from Frozen (Eisprinzessin) walking around for photo opportunities. There is also a small Christmas market there, and a couple of merry-go-rounds (carousels). At the HessenCenter shopping mall in Frankfurt, Father Christmas will be around from noon until 6pm on 3 December, and there are more activities listed on their Facebook page, too.
If you’re prepared to travel, there is a Father Christmas in Heidelberg who you can have your photo taken with (see above).
Other shopping malls such as Loop5 in Weiterstadt will also be having Nikolaus events – presumably on the 3 December, so check out their websites for more details when they publish them.
Also, there is often a “Nikolaus” in town centres or at markets on or around 6 December who gives out small gifts to children, which could offer an alternative. On 4 December in Bad Homburg Kurpark, for example, there will be a Nikolaus distributing gifts from 1pm to 4pm. https://www.weihnachtsstadt-bad-homburg.com/ (p. 12-14)  At the Isenburg Zentrum shopping mall in Neu-Isenburg, there is plenty going on for Christmas, including a visit from Nikolaus on 6 December, puppet theatre on 2 and 9 December, and a huge model train that will be running on the Advent Saturday afternoons (one you look at, not ride on).

If you’re looking for something more active, you could try ice skating. The Eissporthalle in Frankfurt has a big indoor and outdoor ice rink, but some towns such as Eschborn and Wiesbaden (with a plastic rink this year due to the energy crisis) and Heidelberg also have small ice rinks. The shopping mall Isenburg Zentrum in Neu-Isenburg also has a (plastic) ice rink, which opens on 10 December and will be there until 8 January.

While there are no pantomimes like you would find in Britain (oh no you wouldn’t…oh yes you would), there is plenty of other entertainment to take the dreariness out of a winter’s afternoon/evening. Such as the musical Sister Act which is currently playing at The English Theatre in Frankfurt. I haven’t been yet, but based on past experience I am sure it will be amazing. https://english-theatre.de/sister-act/

Or for the whole family, try the (German) puppet theatre in Oberursel on 19 December: https://www.oberurselimdialog.de/events/figurentheater-weihnachten-in-gefahr

There is a (German) children’s theatre production in Rüsselsheim, too, on 11 and 12 December: https://kultur123ruesselsheim.de/kultur-theater/Rieselschnee-und-Klingelglckchen-E10073.htm

Galli Theater and Papageno in Frankfurt and e-Werk in Bad Homburg also have many theatre performances for children, in German.  If you’re looking for a nativity, search for “Krippenspiel” at one of your local churches.

Or for an “illuminating” outdoor experience, visit the lights at Palmengarten (https://www.palmengarten.de/de/ereignis.html?tx_calendarize_calendar%5Bindex%5D=27869&cHash=d564729353b2e03ca9d1a915dde66aff ) or the Christmas Garden at Deutsche Bank Park (https://www.christmas-garden.de/frankfurt/ ).

Taunus Wunderland near Wiesbaden has been transformed into a “winter wonderland” where, in addition to almost all of the usual rides, there is also an ice skating rink, a “flying santa” attraction where Father Christmas flies high and tells Christmas stories a few times a day, and winter huts.

And of course, if you want to celebrate the true meaning of Christmas, you can visit one of the local English-speaking churches such as the international English-speaking Catholic Parish (https://parish-frankfurt.de/?fbclid=IwAR1hVLBWep3FAnxX1VDcPhAvJzTAV4yZvpfSNBMVebEMDPVk6aZTd0bDsC4 ) or Christ the King Anglican/Episcopal Church (https://christ-the-king.net/).

Whatever you end up doing, I hope you enjoy the run-up to Christmas and manage to make/take the time to enjoy some Glühwein. My next post will look at ways to support local businesses when you’re buying your presents & gifts.